Decorative Wire Ball (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

As we wander about living our lives, we often come upon various curiosities, many that can be used for purposes other than originally intended.  In other words, embellishments for our homes and gardens.  Yes, I’m talking about trinkets, tchotchkes, unnecessary objects-pieces that we collect through our life time, some that become beloved treasures.  And it’s funny when you consider some of the things that could potentially become art in your home, garden, or both.

Whimsical Cup holders converted to garden art (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

When it comes to decorating, I love bringing the outside in.  I always have garlands of cones, greens, or twigs hanging over my doorways, leaving no entryway unadorned.  I like to wander about tag sales and flea markets, hunting for unique pieces that I can turn into ornamentation for inside or out.  Years ago, I found these neat antique garden cup holder stakes, with metal that twisted around to hold a beverage, and a decorative flower atop each one.  There were four that I promptly brought home, cleaned up and spray painted bright fuchsia, yellow, blue and orange, finishing by hand painting the flowers.  To this day, I still adore them, they make me smile.

Stone & Orb (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

The benefit of creative ornamentation collecting is that you can use anything you stumble upon . . .  literally.  I use old tree limbs and unusually shaped rocks, for example.  Limbs are tucked in between low growing plants, quickly covered as the offshoots clamor aboard.  Rocks can rest front and center as a focal point, be used as a base for something else to stand on, or positioned to protrude from the soil at a curious angle.  Of course,  you can always pile a few rocks or tie some branches together for an altogether different effect.

Grapevine Railing holds hopps vine (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Vines are another element pretty much free (but not always easy) for the taking.  I use wild grape vines (make sure it’s not poison ivy!) for a railing on my foot bridge.  I love the look as the bark sheds and peels, yet it works well for other decorative vines (I’m trying hopps right now) to grow on as well.  (Kind of ironic, vines growing on vines . . .)  Use care because some wild vines are hard to access, and very heavy to move once cut in length.  They should also be replaced every few years if you’re using them to hold any weight.

Colorful Glass Orb (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

One of my favorite objects are orbs of all shapes and materials. I have gorgeous granite balls purchased from Smith and Hawkin in Long Island; well worth the investment. I adore glass globes, both transparent, blown with swirls of color, or mirrored like old mercury glass.  Most glass pieces are safe outdoors as long as you keep them up from the ground.  My globes remain outdoors as I enjoy seeing them glistening amongst the subtle winter foliage and many appear effervescent when covered in snow.  Groupings are especially attractive; when my stachys were smaller, I used granite balls in between the plants to add contrast.  You can also use round objects to complement other round objects.  For example, I use round granite balls near my circular bird bath to echo both the theme and the soothing grey colors and textures of each.

Ceramic Bird House(photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Ornaments can be used to comfort your feathered friends, as well. Handmade bird houses make a wonderful addition to a garden or pathway, while providing a welcoming habitat for birds to nest.  I have two unusual pieces in my garden that have openings with nesting potential; one had been adopted by little chickadees and one was explored by visiting bees.

Limited only by your space and collecting skills, the possibilities are endless for amassing intriguing ornamentation.  Remember that the next time you’re walking through a flea market and you spot some unusual novelty-it just might become your favorite extravagance.

The post Ornamentation appeared first on A Garden for All.

Mix of Shrubs Fit Together (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

In my New England garden, where 6 months of the year plants are dormant, the backbone consists of low maintenance shrubs, evergreens and small trees. To keep order in the border, I prune most shrubs annually. There are many books written on this subject, emphasizing the importance of knowing the “When and How-to’s” of pruning trees and shrubs to promote their overall performance and well being. And that’s where things can get confusing.  Certain trees and shrubs should be pruned late winter, early spring, while others need to be left until summer. Following are a few tips I use to keep my gardens looking tidy year after year:

American Cranberry Viburnum before pruning (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

When in doubt, I always refer to my pruning go-to guide; The Pruning Book by Lee Reich (www.leereich.com).  Lee’s book explains proper tools, techniques for pruning shrubs,

American Cranberry Viburnum after pruning (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

fruit trees, evergreens, roses, even house plants, and from there he delves into espalier and bonsai for the adventurous gardeners.  However, if you only have a few trees or shrubs to prune, there are numerous website tutorials for everything under the sun, which are more than adequate for the basics.

In a nutshell, most deciduous shrubs, trees and evergreens can be pruned late winter to early spring, which in my zone 5 garden is generally mid-March into early April.

Dwarf Lilac, Blue Spruce & Rose of Sharon (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Early spring is a great time to prune because you have a clear view of the structure (without leaves in the way) and the trees/shrubs heal better while they’re dormant. The general exception to pruning at this time is that any early blooming shrub or tree, such as lilac, magnolia, or rhododendrons, will have their blossoms compromised by a recent pruning.  A newly planted shrub or tree should not be pruned for a few years, to allow it to establish itself.  And, you should never prune off more than a third of a tree/shrub at one time, unless it is a suckering type (like twig dogwood), in which case pruning will actually be beneficial and stimulate new growth.

Northern Bayberry before pruning in A Garden For All by Kathy Diemer http://agardenforall.com

But, why even bother pruning when you can leave a plant to its own devices and it will probably survive just fine?  The key word here is “survive.” If you want a plant to merely exist, then by all means let them be.

Northern Bayberry after pruning (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

However, if you’d like your gardens to look lusher and healthier, you may want to go in and trim a little now and again.  Which brings me to my reasons for pruning:

Health is the number one reason to prune.  Pruning for health involves removing dead or diseased limbs, as well as any interfering branches that are rubbing against each other.  Some trees and shrubs also get suckers (a vigorously growing branch-usually straight up) and in most cases it is best to remove these as well.

Pruned Deciduous Shrubs in border (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

To invigorate a shrub that is getting gangly, sometimes a heavy pruning-thinning out, or shearing within inches from the ground, will provide the necessary stimulation and get it growing with fresh, vibrant vegetation. Pruning to maintain size is a practice I employ religiously.  In order to collect as many shrubs as possible, I often have to place them in spots that they will out grow in several years. By using this “crowding methodology”, many plants will stay within bounds, but for the others like willows, wiegela, dwarf lilacs and rose of sharon, a gentle reminder with the pruner keeps them right where they belong.  And last, prune for creative reasons.

Pruning results in a healthy spring garden (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Perhaps you want a tree to mimic the shape of another element in the garden, so you shape it like a half moon.  Or you want that boxwood to have a conical form, or that dwarf white pine to look like a bonsai, so you remove various branches to expose more of the trunk.

Whatever the reason, or for all of the reasons offered, take a moment and explore your gardens.  Examine your trees and shrubs and decide if there are a few snips and tucks you can execute that will perk things for this spring’s performance. Above all, remember to have fun with the process 

The post A Time to Prune appeared first on A Garden for All.

Stone wall in New Preston (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

As the layers of foliage fall away abandoning the tree limbs, a new aspect of the landscape is revealed; one with walls of stone meandering across its hills and valleys.  Whether formidable structures or crumbling piles, they crisscross heavily wooded acres in patterns reminiscent of boundary markers.

Stone Wall in New Milford (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Centuries ago, these formations dominated the landscape.  They were prominent features on the then treeless areas used for farmland.  Now, you can’t venture far into a New England forest without coming upon (tripping over) an abandoned stone wall.  And as these ancient treasures are exposed, I can’t help but ponder their history . . . (who built them, what were their circumstances, what was their life like?) . . .  in other words, I wish these walls could talk.

Mine Hill granite cliff (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

As farming practices increased in New England, so did the need for fencing.  Initially the wooden rail fence was popular, but as wood became scarce, by the mid to late 1700’s stone became the preferred choice of building materials.  It is estimated that by the late 1800’s approximately 20,000 miles of fencing were made of stone.  Most stone was found on the property, brought to the land by glaciers and heaved up through the soil, while some had to be drilled or mined and brought to the landowner.  Granite, limestone and gneiss were the most common stones used in New England walls as they were the most prevalent. By the 19th century, stone walls were commonly used for creating borders and containing livestock.

My rear patio with mix of local stone (Photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Nowadays, we enjoy stone walls as decorative and structural elements on our property.  We use them to draw emphasis and contrast to an otherwise unremarkable area.  When constructed without mortar, they make wonderful raised garden beds where wandering plants can explore cracks and crevices.  And they can still be used to mark a perimeter or to safely contain our pets.  No matter the use we choose, whether heirloom or newly constructed, our stone walls are treasures to be cherished and preserved for the generations to come.

The post If These Walls Could Talk appeared first on A Garden for All.

Fragrant Casa Blanca Lily (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Ornamental gardens are traditionally designed for visual impact; vivacious blossoms are chosen to display a bold array of colors while shapely shrubs and grasses enhance the landscape with complementary hues and textures. But there is an unseen aspect to the garden that can be as alluring as the view itself, like the enchanting song of a siren luring you closer to the source. In a word: fragrance.

A luscious heirloom rose (Photo by: Kathy Diemer)

In 40BC, Cleopatra used sweetly scented rose petals to lure Mark Anthony to her bedchamber, and today our 21st century markets have followed suit with fragrant hygiene products and unique perfumes, all created to give us our own signature scent. People identify with fragrance, it has the power to soothe, entice or invigorate (think Aromatherapy) yet, it can also transport you in time. Think back to the fresh baked aroma of your grandmother’s apple pie or the first whiff of lilac blossoms in spring. Helen Keller said it best: “Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across thousands of miles and all the years you have lived”.

The fragrant fringes of Witch Hazel (Photo: Kathy Diemer)

Here in zone 5 New England, we are fortunate to have many options for adding fragrance to our gardens. In December we can enjoy the sweetly scented fringe of American Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, followed by Ozark Witch Hazel, Hamamelis vernalis, which offers profuse flowers in February and March. Witch hazels are lovely, low care  shrubs that thrive in zones 4 – 8, slowly growing over 10 feet tall in sunny locations.

Hyacinth ‘Pink Pearl’ with red twig dogwood (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

The witch hazels are a perfect launch into April, when the barn door of fragrance is flung wide open with the arrival of spring blooming bulbs and shrubs. Sweetly scented Hyacinth, Hyacinthus orientalis, are perennial bulbs that are best planted in clusters and offer colors from pastel to intense shades of blue and fuchsia. Another heirloom bulb, the Daffodil, Narcissus, also comes in a vast array of colors and sizes, and different varieties bloom from April to the end of May. While many daffodils have fragrance, my personal favorites are the Jonquil, Narcissus jonquilla, which offer a more intense, spicy perfume. Both daffodils and hyacinths are hardy, long lived bulbs resistant to pests.

The flower of Magnolia stellata (Photo: Kathy Diemer)

The earliest small tree to blossom in my garden is Magnolia stellata, a most cherished early bloomer, and one of the first trees we planted on our property over twenty years ago.  One of spring’s most enchanting fragrances, the multi-petaled, whitish-pink 4″ blossoms blanket the tree in early April, and emit a wonderful scent that gently embraces you and invites you for a closer sniff. Magnolia stellata is perfect for the smaller landscape, as it tops out between 15 to 20′ tall by 10 to 15′ wide, in zones 4-8 with full sun and moist soil. If you want to extend the magnolia season, add the native Sweetbay Magnolia, Magnolia virginiana, which produces lemony scented flowers in late June, followed by showy clusters of red berries that the birds adore.

Fragrant Viburnum Carlesii Blossoms (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

There probably isn’t a more incredible scent in the late April garden than that of Korean Spice Viburnum, Viburnum carlesii, which grows to about six feet tall and wide, and it’s slightly larger cousin Burkwood Viburnum, Viburnum x burkwoodii ‘Mohawk’, that tops out at ten feet tall and wide. Both produce intoxicatingly fragrant clusters of pinkish-white flowers in spring, berries for our feathered friends in summer and burgundy foliage in fall. Carlesii and Burkwoodii would prefer moister soil, but can tolerate dry spells once established.  Mine are in full sun, but they will accept some shade as well.  Each of these jewels possess a lush green foliage in summer, and the shrub form is complementary to neighboring plantings in the border.

Common Syringa vulgaris (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

May wouldn’t be May without the fragrant lavender blooms of heirloom lilacs. Nothing compares to the beauty and perfume of the syringa family, and there are so many sizes and colors to choose from that no one needs to miss the opportunity to have at least one delicious specimen nearby. Planting a lilac is like planting a piece of history, and with care and pruning, you can expect your lilac (tree) to surpass your lifetime as well. For smaller spaces, or to extend the lilac season, there are a few petite lilacs such as Syringa pubescens subsp. patula ‘Miss Kim’, which has lavender blooms and is capable of growing up to 8′ tall and wide, and Tinkerbelle lilac, Syringa ‘Bailbelle’, with buds the shade of wine, opening to a very rich pink.  Both have intensely scented flowers that appear just as the tree lilac’s last fragrant petals fall, and with adequate rainfall, my ‘Miss Kim’ reblooms with a second flush of delightfully aromatic clusters in summer.

Paeonia lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ adorns the walkway (photo: Kathy Diemer)

If I had to pick a “top-ten” fragrant-favorite, that is after you held me down and twisted my arm, one of the chosen few would surely include herbaceous peonies. Not only are they stunningly beautiful, herbaceous peonies will thrive in almost any garden in zones 3-7 with a minimum of six hours of sunshine and moist, well drained soil. Paeonia lactiflora, a phenomenal cut flower, blooms late May through June in gorgeous shades of pink, crimson red, white and yellow, with a variety of flower types to suit your taste. Peonies are long lived souls (many over 100 years) that don’t require dividing unless you want to expand the brood.

Fringe Tree with Hemlock Neighbor (photo: Kathy Diemer)

By June, the American Fringe Tree, Chionanthus virginicus, is flaunting its honeysuckle scented clusters of shredded coconut-like flowers that flutter gently in the breeze. Appearing by mid-June, the ethereal blossoms gently dangle from each branch like silken threads, creating the illusion of something light and airy floating on your landscape.  Chionanthus is derived from the Greek word meaning snow flower, but this small tree (up to 20’) is incredibly durable and drought tolerant once established. Another scent-sational, June flowering shrub is Mock Orange, Philadelphus x virginalis, (zone 5-8), which produces masses of double white flowers while remaining a moderate 5 foot shrub. For anyone that has ever visited an orange grove, Mock Orange offers the same not-to-be-missed citrus scented blossoms and only requires annual pruning to keep it looking lush.

Incredibly fragrant Rosa ‘Louise Odier’ (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

For flowers that will continue the fragrant theme throughout the summer and into fall, I call on my heirloom roses, Oriental lilies and phlox to keep the garden rocking its sweetest scents. Heirloom roses are reliably fragrant, disease resistant and extremely durable. A long time member of my garden is Louise Odier, an 1851 antique bourbon with the sweetest perfume imaginable, packaged within a gorgeous pink flower. With adequate rain, Louise blooms from May through October, no chemicals required. The most aromatic of lilies are the Orientals, and I would never be without the much beloved pink Lilium ‘Stargazer’ and white Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’, although they need to be protected from browsing visitors. And talk about rocking it, a plant guaranteed to “knock your socks off” with color and sweet scent is none other than Phlox paniculata, a dependable bloomer that will provide flowers from July through September, with a plethora of blossom colors and options. Try the very popular Phlox paniculata ‘David’, a mildew resistant cultivar with luminous clusters of pearly white flowers.

The gorgeous flower of Philadelphus virginalis (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

All of the plants, shrubs and trees recommended are long lived members of my garden, and I hope some will become treasured members of your garden in the near future. Happy planting . . . may the scent be with you 

The post Plants for Seasons of Fragrance appeared first on A Garden for All.

Button bush and ironweed in a natural setting (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Do you have a spot on your property that’s sort of “Blah”? Perhaps it’s a little wet or in a difficult place to mow, so it always tends to look messy and unkempt. Or, you may simply have an area that you would like to turn back over to nature, creating a place that you don’t have to spend much time tending but will look attractive and invite lots of birds, bees and butterflies. Over the years, I have slowly returned portions of my landscape to the wild, which has resulted in some of the most beautiful (and frequently visited) areas of my property.

Bumble bees dine on a button bush blossom (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Initially it was hard for someone with my neat-freak tendencies to allow portions of my manicured lawns to revert back to their original footloose and fancy free state. By starting small and adding a few native shrubs and plants, the process became more palatable for me. As I watched the transformation from compact and trimmed to loose and flowing, I found out something important about myself as well: that I could “Let go” and allow the natural process of things to take over. And, much to my surprise, things evolved quite wonderfully without much intervention (from me) at all.

Native cornus and button bush create a stream side hedge (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

That’s not to say you won’t need to get into your newly liberated area and weed out a few undesirables (such as garlic mustard and bittersweet vine) that will certainly want to mingle with your new plantings, because a little effort on your part will reward you in spades later on. Usually, I tackle the unwanted trespassers early in the spring before they get a chance to really take hold. I know it may be hard to recognize the good guys from the bad guys this early on, but try your best. Many non-native weeds will already be quite prolific, which helps to distinguish them from the native plants that will be more cautious before sending up their delicate tendrils to be zapped by Jack Frost. By removing the many villains as soon as possible, you allow the desired plantings to thrive without competing for sun, water and nutrients.

The indigo fruit of native dogwood (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Some native shrubs and perennials can spread quickly, so depending on the size of the allocated space, you’ll need to decide what you ultimately would like the outcome to be. For example, if you have a spot that backs up to a dense forest, you may want to utilize native shrubs such as mountain laurel or spreading cornus specimens, and some perennials like fern, woodland phlox and aster. These shrubs will create a lovely transition to the woodland, while the plants will offer color and texture variations through the seasons.

Native cranberry with Joe pye weed (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

For a more open area or wet spot, again space permitting, a wide variety of shrubs and plants would love to park themselves in your back yard. My favorite native shrubs for sunny (to part shade) and wet to dry soil conditions are button bush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), red chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia ‘Brilliantissima’), silky dogwood (Cornus amomum), spice bush (Lindera benzoin), American cranberry (Viburnum trilobum) and native pussy willow (Salix discolor). You can pair these shrubs with some bold native perennials such as milkweed (Asclepias), aster (aster sp.), goldenrod (Solidago), Joe pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum) and ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis). Many of these shrubs (especially silky dogwood) will spread extensively if allowed (easily kept within bounds by mowing) and some will grow over eight feet tall (many can be pruned to keep smaller), which makes them perfect companions for the tall milkweed, aster, ironweed and goldenrod.

A bee and butterfly snack on milkweed (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Most of the shrubs and plants I have mentioned offer multiple benefits; from flowers and berries to delectable fall foliage. All are low maintenance, requiring minimal care once established. And most importantly, once you create this inviting habitat, all sorts of likeable critters will flock to your space and make it their own. Imagine bees humming nearby, butterflies gliding on the breeze and birds raising their young right outside your door. You’ll be doing more than creating a small native garden, you’ll be creating a mini-paradise in your backyard 

The post A Natural Garden appeared first on A Garden for All.

Weeping katsura, hemlock and grasses provide a variety of forms and colors (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

For those of us enduring long periods of dormancy in our seasonal landscapes, winter bones help to keep our outdoor environments lively and inviting.  Structures popping out of the snow and forms drizzled in frost create artistic objects that we may gaze upon and enjoy during the coldest days.  For no matter the season, and even without the benefit of green adornments, our gardens can be incredibly beautiful and interesting with the simple addition of living framework.  Andrew Wyeth said it best: “I prefer winter and fall, when you can feel the bone structure in the landscape-something waits beneath it, the whole story doesn’t show.” 

River Birch brightens the winter landscape (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Indeed, the exposed trees and shrubs of the winter landscape appear as skeletons, yet they need not be scary; instead offering an aura of mystery, while alluding to the future promise of spring.  As gardeners and  caretakers of our plots, we can take advantage of the opportunity during these quiet months; to re-evaluate our designs and consider areas that may be enhanced with the addition of either a deciduous or evergreen planting.  It is when our landscape is in its most serene state that we may truly view the potential for improvement; the optimal blank palette so to speak.

Weeping larch with mixed evergreens (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

And creating a timeless landscape isn’t as daunting as it might seem; once you determine the sun exposure and zone hardiness for your garden, and then choose features you want to incorporate into your design (interesting bark, unusual trunk form, evergreen foliage color, to name a few). You will be pleasantly surprised to discover the many options available to you.  Here are a few of my favorite winter forms to help you on your way:

Dawn Redwood’s mahogany bark stands out against a snowy background (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides): Considered a living fossil, metasequoia was once one of the most widespread tree species in the Northern hemisphere.  What I love about Metasequoia glyptostroboides is its unusual, rippled mahogany trunk and peeling bark, especially attractive in winter.  Its upright form and unusual branching habit provides a comfortable perch for birds, and the soft deciduous needles turn gold in the fall before dropping.  As it matures, the roots come up from the ground like prehistoric serpents swimming around the base. It is hard to find a good specimen, so take the time to find one with a conical, well branched form and you will be amply rewarded for your efforts.  Dawn Redwood will easily grow 30 feet or more in your lifetime, eventually reaching over 100 feet tall by 20 feet wide in sunny zones 5-8.

River birch’s ornate peeling bark (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

River Birch (Betula nigra): Is a recent introduction to my garden, one that I’ve quickly fallen in love with.  While other star struck lovers are dreaming of their beloved, (or perhaps a box of chocolates), I’m besotted with a tree!  But not just any tree can sweep me off my feet, enchanting me with its ravishing exterior . . .  Betula nigra, an Eastern U.S. native in zones 4-9,  subtly compliments any landscape from spring through fall with its delicate, fluttering foliage, while absolutely igniting the winter scene with captivating ornamental scrolls of bronze, gently peeling away from its ivory trunk (this display is particularly dramatic on trees with multiple trunks).  Preferring moist soil, but tolerant of dryer conditions (even drought-once established), river birch is another fast grower, tripling its size in three years, with the potential of reaching 70 feet tall by 40 feet wide.

Frosty buds of Magnolia Stellata (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Star Magnolia (Magnolia stellata): One of the first trees introduced to our landscape, stellata was discovered in its dormant state while wedged between other trees at a local nursery.  I was immediately intrigued by the wrinkled grey trunk, reminiscent of an elephant’s skin, and limbs glowing with almost walnut sized frosty grey buds. It has a rounded, open form, but remains a bit more petite for smaller gardens, topping out around 20 feet tall by 15 feet wide.  Hardy to zones 4-8, it prefers some moisture in the soil and should be mulched or watered during long drought periods.  In addition to the smoky winter interest, this lady also produces one of the most dramatic (and fragrant) flower displays you could experience in a zone 5 April garden, followed by lush tropical green leaves through summer.

Red & yellow twig dogwood stems dazzle in the winter garden (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea): With stems of the brightest cardinal red to the boldest canary yellow, twig dogwoods have become one of the most popular shrubs for adding winter color to the landscape.  Twig dogwoods tolerate a variety of conditions, making them extremely versatile for garden plantings. Although they love moister soils and lots of sun, they will accept dry spells and partial shade, growing to 8 feet tall and wide (pruning recommended) in zones 3-8. During the spring and summer months these gems fill out with lush green or variegated leaves (cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’), in a dense shrub form that melds nicely with any landscape style.  In addition to the dazzling winter display, a majority of cornus cultivars also produce white flowers in summer, followed in fall by blue or white berries that are quickly gobbled up by our feathered friends.

So, start collecting pictures of shrubs and trees in the plant catalogs coming to you (*and check out some of the trees and shrubs I’ve written about in prior posts, too).  Now is the perfect time to reassess your surroundings and think about a tree or shrub that will amplify your existing view.  Choose one (or more!) whose form will not only re-ignite your appreciation for the landscape during all seasons, but will leave you feeling more and more thrilled as it matures with each passing year.

The post Winter Bones appeared first on A Garden for All.

A young Pin Oak’s ample canopy (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

With the landscape in hibernation mode, there’s no time like the present to view your blank palette and think about ways to kick it up a notch.  In a recent article, Winter Bones, I shared some of my favorite trees and shrubs for long season interest.  But there is another consideration when it comes to selecting a tree for your property, one that requires a little more thought and research.  In this case, size does matter, and surprisingly even the most knowledgeable gardeners (myself included) often neglect to determine exactly how big a tree might become over time.  If you observe landscapes as you drive around, I’m sure you’ve witnessed dozens of trees planted too close to a residence or under power lines, resulting in unnecessary tree massacres.  But it doesn’t have to be this way . . .

Bright birch limbs add interest to a shrub border (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Lots of plant catalogs are filling our mailboxes now, so the timing is right to look at potential additions to our yard, while having the opportunity to review their many visual options; leaf color, flowering, bark and form.  Then, take it a step further and carefully scrutinize the capacity for height, width, and growth rate.  Instead of making an impulsive purchase based on the seductive appearance of a tree specimen, we can confidently stroll into a nursery with a list of candidates that will fill the position without overflowing the boundaries.  Here’s a few of the elements I consider before introducing a new form to the landscape:

• Are there now, or will there be any facilities in or near where I want to plant this tree?  For example, power and utility lines (both above or below ground), septic pipes or access points, property lines and nearness to foundations.  Trees too close to a septic or foundation may cause damage from intrusive root systems.  If any service needs to be done to septic or utility lines, your tree’s roots (or the tree itself) may be compromised.
• Am I providing enough room around the tree so that it may grow freely, having access to the proper amount of sunlight and airflow?  Can I move around the tree easily (as it grows) to mulch and prune if necessary?  As the tree grows will it shade out an area (such as a pool or patio) where I will want sun exposure?
• If using a foundation planting, will it block access to a window or doorway over time? Can it be pruned to keep a formal shape if I desire?  If evergreen, does the color compliment my home?  If deciduous,  does it have an interesting form through the winter months?

A mix of evergreens provide seasonal color for foundation plantings (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Once you have answered these questions, and narrowed down the criteria, it’s time to plan for the new addition.  When I have a blank spot to fill in an area such as a garden or near the foundation, I like to look at the surrounding plantings and consider how this new tree or shrub can add more interest to the composition.  It could be something as simple as a leaf size or flower, or something more specific, such as a form that is rounded versus a random, more informal shape.  When I have a garden filled with perennials and deciduous shrubs, I might want to incorporate some evergreen foliage.  In a setting with lots of evergreens, I might want to consider an interesting deciduous architecture or something with colorful bark.  Again, the ultimate size of your new shrub or tree must be at the forefront of your plan.

A properly sited sweetgum doesn’t block pastoral view (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

When I want to add a tree to the open landscape, I like to examine the terrain from many angles, and especially from the points I feel it will be most frequently viewed from.  When I chose a site for my sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua), I knew it could grow to 70 feet tall and 30 feet wide.  I wanted to be sure that it was balanced in the landscape (not too close to anything else) and would not block my favorite view from the deck out to my horses pasture.  In another example, I planted a pin oak in our open back yard to provide some privacy from a new development.  The Quercus palustris, a native shade tree tolerant of moist soils that grows to 70 feet tall and almost as wide, has already grown almost 20 feet tall in 8 years.

Use dwarf trees & low growing shrubs to maintain open views (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

For deciduous trees that won’t become too outrageous in size, consider stewartia, magnolia or Japanese maples.  Massive deciduous trees such as sugar maple and sycamore are traditional New England plantings for big open spaces.  Willows and birches are fast growers that won’t completely smother out the sun, and some can be pruned to keep smaller.  Evergreens run the gamut, from tall and narrow to short and wide spread.  Because evergreens are difficult to keep pruned and may quickly outgrow an area (I learned this the hard way), select dwarf varieties or plan on having to remove them once they outgrow an area.  But most importantly, have fun and enjoy the process!

The post The Selection Process appeared first on A Garden for All.

Fences separate gardens from walkways (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

It is often said that fences make good neighbors, yet fences offer much more than a friendly barrier between adjoining properties.  A lot more.  A fence can add another dimension to an existing garden bed.  A fence can create multiple rooms within a property.  A fence can add a dramatic backdrop or entryway.  A fence can separate a public area from a private one.  A fence can be practical or ornamental.  And, a fence can certainly be used to obstruct the view of prying eyes as well.

A fence divides property from a busy roadway (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

I consider myself somewhat of an expert on fences, having installed, maintained and replaced hundreds of feet (with the help of my dedicated, willing and able spouse) over the last few decades.  Because we have over 1,300 feet of road frontage, and a small herd of animals, fences were a necessity the moment we moved into our country home.  That, and we live close to a busy road, so having a fence gave us a feeling of separation from the hazardous traffic.  Although we chose a low, open fence to invite sunshine and observation alike, the fence in front of our home remains esthetically appealing both to our bordering gardens and the home itself.

A fence’s design can enhance its surroundings (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

There are many things to consider when choosing a fence, but before you start looking at designs and styles, you’ll need to determine if you’re a “Do it yourselfer” or if you’ll be needing someone to install the fence for you.  Depending on the span, the cost of installation could far exceed the cost of the materials, which is why we have always opted to perform our own labor.  I won’t get into technicalities here, suffice to say if you can use a posthole digger, know how to run a string, use a level and can carry a bag of cement, you may be a candidate for self installation.  If your head is whirling with the info I’ve given, plan on hiring someone to install your fence.

This fence provides a clear delineation between garden and parking area (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Once you’ve determined who will be installing, you can start looking at various types of fences; from formal wrought iron to rustic split rail.  To decide which product will best work for you, consider your home’s style as well as the surrounding environment.  This is also the time to determine the ultimate purpose of the fence, if other than for aesthetics. For example, if you have a small cape in a country setting, perhaps a picket fence would look charming.  If you have a larger colonial in a development, you may want to consider neighboring fences and determine which styles would blend the best.  If your home is a rustic log cabin, a split rail may be the perfect accompaniment to the landscape.  However, if privacy is your ultimate goal, you’ll need to look at stockade or slatted types of concealment.

Fences help to keep little Endora safe (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Hand in hand with style are height considerations, and you’ll want to take the time to be sure you’re choosing accurately.  If you’ve ever driven by a small home overwhelmed by a massively tall barrier, you’ll understand the height concept.  Depending on the depth from the home to the fence line, if you go too tall with a smaller home, it will look out of proportion, and the same goes for using too short of a fence for a sizable house.  Generally speaking, a fence around 4′ tall should offer good balance for the average sized home.  However, if you need a fence to keep something in (or out), such as around a pool, you may have to go substantially higher.  The same case holds for keeping animals within, as many dogs, horses and other pets may be capable of jumping over a lower fence line.

Mother Nature’s intervention created change (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Although I’m the first to admit that looks often override practicality, learn from my mistakes and decide just how much work you want to have when it comes to maintaining your new fence.  I say this with the full understanding of the monotonous, painstaking process that went into painting dozens of sections of cedar picket fence (hey, we were young . . . and obviously hadn’t remembered reading Tom Sawyer, or we would have enlisted the help of friends).  Needless to say, once you’ve painted, you’ll have to wash and repaint every two years at a minimum to keep things looking nice.  As luck would have it, a hurricane blew in a few years ago, and with the help of two enormous locusts, proceeded to flatten a long procession of our picket fence.  We took this brush with nature as an opportunity for change, and replaced it with a painted stainless steel fence, which is far easier to maintain (although I’ll admit, not nearly as beautiful as the cedar fence was).

A split rail fence works well for livestock (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Our horse pasture was unceremoniously fenced with wire and multiflora rose when we moved in, but as the years went by, it became more rose and less fence.  And it looked really crummy.  For some time we had refrained from replacing the fence because we thought we would have to install another high maintenance, white painted product.  However, because there is a good distance between the white picket fence and the pasture, we were able to transition to split rail; which offered little to no maintenance, provided the height we needed and kept the pastoral effect.  Our neighbors also have split rail around their property, so we compliment each other.  In addition, the split rail is easy to weed-whack around, and the rails are close enough to keep our dogs from getting out (although other dogs do squeeze in for an occasional visit).

Roses and fences go together like peanut butter and jelly (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

As technology has evolved, so has fencing, and I have only touched on a few of the choices presently available in the market today.  Take the time to consider each aspect of having a fence on your property; how it could enhance your yard, protect your children and animals and offer structure and beauty as well.

The post Fences appeared first on A Garden for All.

Knautia ‘Thunder & Lightening’ (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

It may not be time to plant yet, but it is the opportune time to start planning.  Are there a few bare spots you’re looking to fill?  Maybe an area that needs a little revamping? Or, perhaps there was a mole/vole party that has created a new vacancy. You can finally start perusing through those piles of plant catalogs with a vengeance, and compile your lists.  You know, the list categorized by the “must haves”, the “wish I could have” and the “if I win the lottery, I can have.” I always have at least a few dreamy wish plants and lottery picks, just in case of a windfall.  In the meantime, let’s narrow down your “must haves” to include some spicy foliaged specimens.

Caryopteris ‘Snow Fairy’ with Eupatorium ‘Chocolate’ (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Now that you’re thinking about your garden, (and after reviewing last year’s garden pix), you’re open and receptive to ideas and inspiration for livening up the format.  Realizing that most times it’s the plant’s vegetation carrying the responsibility of a colorful and balanced scene; you quickly understand that the choices you make for selection and placement will determine how exciting your garden will look through the seasons.  I always incorporate dark burgundy and vibrant chartreuse foliaged plants and shrubs throughout the gardens, but my favorite eye-catching plants are the ones with variegation.  Mottled, edged, streaked or splashed-those cheerful multi-colored leaves create a spot light in any area they’re planted, which is why variegated foliage is a big part of my design concept.

Phlox ‘Norah Leigh’ with Cotinus (photo credit: Kathy Diemer) http://agardenforall.com

For plants, variegation runs the gamut from shade loving groundcovers to sun worshipping giants.  The shade darling, Lamium maculatum ‘White Nancy,’ has stunning silver highlights that literally glow in the dark (plant along a shady pathway, and forget the night lights), while its cousin ‘Anne Greenway’s’ golden accents brighten the shadiest understory.  Hostas are brimming with opportunities; ‘Fire & Ice’ is a fragrant beauty with leaves splashed in vibrant white, and the larger ‘Great Expectations’ will fulfill yours with its three foot diameter of golden highlights.  For the sunnier spots, I adore Knautia ‘Thunder & Lightening’, which has lush frosty foliage and dazzling raspberry flowers hovering above.  The taller, sweetly scented Phlox paniculata ‘Norah Leigh’ will woo you with her fragrant pink blooms and creamy foliage, and she’s simply stunning parked next to a dark leaved gentleman like Cotinus coggygria (smoke bush).

Euonymus ‘Variegatus’ (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Euonymus ‘Variegatus’ and friends are perfect for part shade or sunny settings, and stay evergreen through the winter with mild protection.  Surround them with other plants and shrubs and they will shine enthusiastically all year long.  Euonymus come in mounding shapes (easily pruned to maintain) or trailing forms, which work wonderfully for climbing walls or trailing down inclines.  The deer don’t like them either.  And, speaking of deer resistance, I grow a delightfully showy deciduous shrub with the brightest white variegation on tiny leaves-but boy is this thing stinky.  Yes, Caryopteris ‘Snow Fairy’ will die down in winter, but bounds back faithfully year after year in a mass of frothy ivory foliage.  Beautiful when paired with a darker leaved companion (like Eupatorium ‘Chocolate’), which only assists in showing off the bright display.

Liquidambar styraciflua ‘Variegata’ (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

Variegation works well with trees, such as sweetgum, Liquidambar styraciflua ‘Variegata’, a relatively new introduction to my landscape.  Purchased from Broken Arrow Nursery in early April a few years back, it wasn’t even leafed out at the time.  Intrigued by the description: “An eye-catching cultivar with unique yellow streaked and spotted foliage.  Show stopping pink and scarlet, two-toned fall color completes the package.” I was unable to resist, and am quite happy that I didn’t.  Perhaps you’ll consider adding a few variegated members to your plant palette this year as well . . . Have fun!

The post The Variegation Sensation appeared first on A Garden for All.

The first garden in 2005 (Photo by: Kathy Diemer)

There is something special about a garden created by its owner, the passion and love are planted in the soil along with each plant. It’s the sweat equity factor. When a person decides to dig up a spot of land and plant something solely for the purpose of creating beauty, it is the selfless act of love paired with a desire to share and learn that truly speaks to my heart.

When we moved to our country property almost 30 years ago, we had a yard of over 2 acres surrounded by open cow pastures. Other than some multiflora rose and piles of old tires and tractor parts from its former farming years, I had an open palette to work with. I dug in within months.  

The first garden in 2015 (photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Although the house (circa 1940) needed a lot of work and updates, which my husband and I did over the years, it was the yard that called to me, offering a place to start anew, reflect, design, create and fall in love with the land and its surroundings. And I did.

It might be hard to believe when you visit my gardens now, but I started simply – by digging up one section in the back yard along the stream. I gravitated to this spot behind our home, it was secluded with a view of the meadows and bountiful wildlife. Where better to create my first garden sanctuary? And when I say dug, I mean by hand, pulling out deep rooted weeds and swamp grass that took patience and perseverance to completely remove the tangled web of roots. But, determination paid off and I finally had a spot to start creating.

A new garden created in 2007 (Photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Yet, even as I dug and before I even started to plant, I was learning. Like the curious pheasant that wandered across the field to observe my endeavors, I learned that nature was all around me, anxious to greet me and share its wealth of knowledge. I realized that digging in the dirt wasn’t simply a task that led to an accomplishment, rather the act of digging was an important part of the journey.

The same garden only 5 years later (Photo by: Kathy Diemer)

That first garden taught me much of what I learned, from designing to attract nature and using native plants, to considering bloom times and incorporating shrubs to provide contrast and interest, especially in the winter months. Learning through experiments, observation and trial-and-error turned out to be the best teacher I could ever have had.

In the challenging and exhilarating process of searching for and discovering plants to accomplish my various objectives, I pored over hundreds of gardening books and dozens of plant and bulb retail magazines. I attended garden talks and symposiums. I visited every public garden within driving range, and when invited to a friend’s garden, I followed them around taking in every bit of information they were willing to share. I noted their favorite plants and the ones that performed best and worst. But, if they had a plant that I loved, even if it was purported to be a ‘trouble maker,’ indeed I had to try it for myself! Part of what makes gardening fun and rewarding is trying new things – experimenting – because when you’re successful, you’re over the moon!

A Lawn Garden installed in 2006 (Photo by: Kathy Diemer)

Through the years I have carved out more and more spots for gardens. I have spent countless hours researching plants, trees and shrubs that would provide seasons of interest without too much maintenance. The latter is most important as I am still the only person maintaining my gardens and need to be smart with my time. I discovered that plants, trees and shrubs with interesting foliage, whether it be color, variegation or simply shape, to trees with attractive bark or hunky architecture and shrubs with fall foliage, berries and fragrant blooms, were relevant to creating a garden that is engaging all year long. You can read the hundreds of posts I’ve written about beautiful plants and stunning design to help you fulfill your goals (and I hope you will), but I can’t stress how inspirational it is to also go out and discover your own favorite plants by visiting local gardens and retail garden centers.

Lawn garden in fall of 2015 (photo credit: Kathy Diemer)

My best advice is to never allow yourself to become discouraged in this process, and don’t compare your gardens to those of others. Remember the reasons you chose to create your own space, personalized to your tastes. It will never be like anyone else’s, nor should it be!

Just as my gardens are a reflection of my taste and desire to harmonize my property with the surrounding landscape, your garden(s) may be something quite different. Bold colors, statuary, water features, wild meadows, spectacular patio or roof gardens, or a few simple containers on a porch – the choices are limitless, but they are your choices. Whatever you decide, it is your garden, your space to unwind, reflect and enjoy. And it will always be special because it is uniquely yours. 

The post Creating Your Special Garden appeared first on A Garden for All.